Hello everyone, Johny here!
The Tenaya Oasis were my first real pair of "can do everything climbing shoes" and not the dusty hire shoes you find in gyms or cheap as chips ones you get from amazon.
From getting them out the box for the first time they are fantastically comfy. Especially for a shoe that is moderately aggressive and compared to other shoe that are in the same tier of performance. There isn't any of the "break in" period with these shoe that you might expect with other shoes.
For a moderately aggressive down turned shoe its super comfy, which surprisingly doesn't compromise on the preciseness either. Now my foot is on the wider side so I did find that my toes were shoved right into the toe box, but this didn't hinder my performance or comfort. However this shoe is design more for a narrower foot shape.
What I did find is that they are super soft and sensitive, so my foot had to do most of the work because of the lack of a midsole. Mostly from lack of experience with softer shoes. However this did mean I had a better understanding of where my foot was on the holds. The Virbram XS Grip rubber is relatively sticky and durable, the sole is this weird hybrid one piece split sole category which meant I had a decent amount of flexibility throughout the shoe and a good deal of rigidity.
The only thing does take a little while to sort out but once you've got it down it's perfect, this is the closure system. The top one tightens the heel and the bottom one tightens across forefoot. The microfiber that the shoe is made out of has a cotton lining, which does stretch out after a little while so suggest getting a slightly smaller size before hand. I didn't overly get on with the heels on the Oasis as they didn't feel like they were filling out the space and could slip around.
Anyway it's a great all round shoe for the beginner intermediate climber.
